Reality. My photography website is displayed on Instagram, but the page is not linked to me. I reconstructed what had been deconstructed by adding in the concept of movement, of blurring, to use a photographic term. Musically and currently from Zac Carper the charismatic singer of Fidlar, a skate cult band, to Yann Pessino, this is an alternative background that endlessly define the conventions of youth cultures in California and influence youth all over the world. My mum knew how to cut jackets “au chic” without a pattern. California joined the resistance, but the energy has fatally changed. The key to everything is to preserve the enchantment. At Celine, the weight of the past is not as strong as at Dior or Saint Laurent. For more information read our Terms & Conditions and Privacy Policy. I trust it started with German early romanticism, and Goethe in particular. Youth, at the same time, can be on the lions on the grand boulevards, in the cellars of Saint-Germain and in the occupied lecture halls of the Sorbonne. Album covers became a vortex of inspiration, as I was mesmerized by the glitters and decadent promises of the stage. Ton album a connu un grand succès, les fans en sont ravis. ‘Slimane’ would make a great label… The Sorrows of Young Werther had a strong influence on me – Werther’s angst and moments of perfect bliss resonated in me. Site Map Los Angeles changed a lot over the last few years. Do you have any feelings about that? HS: I met Curtis Harding when he was finishing his introduction album and shot a video for it, besides the album cover. Golden Barbie, Persol, il design degli occhiali da sole pieghevoli. All of this was anticipated. I come from a family of tailors from Pescaro, in the Abruzzo region of Italy. Would you ever leave it again? Some of those characters, mostly musicians, I have been following and photographing ever since, some are newly discovered, and naturally this intriguing search is ongoing day after day. It’s as if we have just discovered the tenuous and fundamental link between youth and fashion or the link between youth and music. LUKE LEITCH: Hallo Hedi – thanks so much for your Los Angeles portfolio and for the chance to conduct this interview. The magic of the street lamps, the neons in the cafés, the sparkling Parisian youth and the energy of the streets. HS: I met Arrow some years ago, she was still very young and captivating, and wanted to focus on Music. It’s a pity that the city is eager to close down interesting places like those and turn its back on Parisian nights. Taking photographs, portraits, is like writing a short novel about each and everyone. Why should I give up on what defines me? This had to involve a redefinition of the codes and the silhouette. I have been to many specialists in the United States, in Europe, but there’s no cure. It’s as if we have just discovered the tenuous and fundamental link between youth and fashion or the link between youth and music. Consistency, rigour, accuracy — this is what is meaningful to me. Respect is to preserve the integrity of everyone, to recognise things that belong to another person with honesty and discernment. When there is no debate, it means there is no opinion — the definition of blind conformity. No matter the time in history, they are this pure energy, the exaltation of every moment and the emotion of the skin, living their lives at full speed. 2.700.000 euro i.v. The lights still remain, though. HS: I’ve always been really sensitive to this notion of high quality, this inherent savoir-faire of the house. Slimane : En exclusivité, le vainqueur de l’édition 2016 de The Voice a accepté de nous accorder une interview. It’s my thread. Regione Puglia @ Photo Vogue Festival 2018, by Curtis is extremely talented. My street, indie, and slender “androgyne” models were for many from another planet. It’s something that is in you and that is stronger than you. They must evolve and unearth the essence of what they truly are — everything but indifference. This tinnitus apparently comes from a post-traumatic stress disorder, without acoustic shock. Will Self-Regulation Solve Fashion’s Sustainability Problem? He is originally from Georgia, and always had a strong connection with Southern California psych rock scene, The Growlers and so on. Before I had a home, I used to stay for months at the Chateau Marmont which typically was a really different place then, very private, filled with young actors or directors living there all year around. Baldessari is an especially interesting subject because his work has long used photography to interrogate our assumptions of artistic value. I would float in everything. My mum knew how to cut jackets “au chic” without a pattern. Beyond the brilliant virtuosity of the ateliers, this savoir-faire corresponds to a state of mind, a way of operating, the immediate smartness of a model, a particular feeling that can only be found in Paris. At Celine, I come back to the classic perception of my job from when I started 20 years ago, without any nostalgia. In this context, the idea of playing with the codes of the bourgeoisie is rather interesting. And the ambiguity of that line says something about me as a teenager. I am still passionate about the myth of the West Coast. LS: How do you perceive the brand itself? This is still the case today. – Facebook I managed to get up again and handle this pain every day. I had an artist residency there for 3 years. His first Celine collection, which will be shown in Paris on September 28, is one of the most anticipated of the Spring/Summer 2019 season, as it marks the designer's return to fashion two years after leaving Saint Laurent. It reigns on my catwalks, house after house. I still haven’t made up my mind. I also defend a French fashion mindset that is almost formal and is linked to my youth, to what I was taught, to the people I have met — Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, when I first started in my years at Dior. I wanted to be a reporter and the entirety of my work consists of documenting my era, whether it's photography or fashion. And often – although not exclusively – that connection is made through music… Slimane : La musique se partage, j’en suis persuadé ! HS: Surf and skate cultures have been one of the main topics of my photography since I started the California cycle in 2007. Comment tes proches et ta famille, notamment, ont-ils vécu ta victoire et ce succès ? All the youths of the world are different and yet they are alike. Translation by Khadija Belmaaziz. Becoming someone else on the pretext that what I did in the past has been digested or imitated? This interview was originally published in Le Figaro. I guess I have changed, but more likely I was sleepwalking. There was also my belief back in the 90’s of a distinctive attitude, a creative community rooted in indie subcultures. It’s acknowledging who you are and who you’re not. C’est une formidable expérience qui va commencer dès mai prochain, j’ai hâte ! Staz was photographed at her apartment on the east side of town. This is why I thought he was naturally part of this project, an icon next to the promising and electric Arrow de Wilde. Now, for the first time, the secretive couturier opens up about his family, his affinities and social media, revealing an outstanding person who fascinates and triggers. I saw a video interview you did with Tim Blanks for style.com many years ago in which you mentioned the possibility of creating a brand or house of your own – would that ever interest you? It belongs to me, and in return, I am compelled to it. The modelling is unrelated. But it had to be done. Maintenant que c’est fait et que tu as pu partir en tournée dans toute la France, peux-tu nous en dire plus sur tes projets à venir ? The ones she would tailor for me were perfect. It’s interesting to see what this will become in the long term. I think about "Tricheurs" by Marcel Carné and the "Chansons d’Amour" by Christophe Honoré. LF: How do you create an emotional point of view in a world dominated by the “botoxed digital revolution” that you have previously denounced? Elle dément les rumeurs –, Kevin Guedj : il répond à Carla comme à un ‘pote’ et ça ne passe pas, Mélanie Dedigama : c’est officiel, elle quitte la France avec sa petite famille, Anaïs Camizuli : séparée du père de sa fille, elle raconte, Angèle quitte Greg Yega : la preuve qu’il a voulu revoir Maeva dans son dos. I started to define an aesthetic and musical representation that I first showed in an exhibition at the MOCA museum in 2011, called California Song. Qu’est-ce qu’on peut te souhaiter ? His aesthetic shares a kinship with yours, I think. Can you tell us a little about your friendship with these artists? For 10 years now, and still today, I have been documenting surf communities in Southern California. HS: I have always photographed, documented and dressed the youth. HS: Music is the syntax behind my style in photography, but also, behind all of my fashion design for the past 20 years. For portraiture, and music in particular, I don’t think interfering with the subject’s personal style makes any sense. It is inseparable from my fashion style and my photography. All the youths of the world are different and yet they are alike. HS: I started to come to Los Angeles in ‘97. You have said before that this was something that developed as a form of defence, almost defiance, to those who teased you. Why not designing from here and define an aesthetic around California? Los Angeles is always evolving, and there are music communities that keep emerging all over the state. HS: Androgyny is somehow personal history. A visionary, Slimane draws his creative strength from his passion for photography, fashion and the rock scene. Paris, circa 1997 at Saint Laurent, was when I started designing inside this small creative community coming out, later called the French touch. HS: I stand firm for my principles. I don’t have a personal Instagram account. Can you tell us a little about connecting with him? Can you tell us about what you go through every day? It's about learning to live with it. Et oui, j’ai, en effet, accepté un rôle au cinéma aux côtés de Sabrina Ouazani. HS: I really like Instagram when it comes to engagement and artistic projects. Everyone loves LA now. His first fashion show for the LVMH-owned brand, which will take place at Les Invalides on Friday evening, is one of the most anticipated of the Spring/Summer 2019 shows. HS: It is hard to say. LF: How do you extend your Californian chronicle? Tu n’as pas peur de prendre la grosse tête ? Celine is a vision of Paris, a way of being worn… I don’t want to lock it up in something. We also brought on the expertise of pattern making and draping for eveningwear and couture. LL: These are tantalising pictures that are both artistic and, I think, reportorial. LL: I love that picture of Iggy. I am very attached to it. Starting from here, we can coin a vocabulary. Will the next social networks evolve towards a new realism where there will be no alterations and touch ups? He spoke to the French newspaper Le Figaro about his life, his inspirations and what he has in mind for the brand. Et même, parlons hypothétiquement, si tu pouvais travailler avec n’importe quel artiste de ton choix, international ou non : vers quelle personne ta décision se porterait ? I see them as artists. I decided to shift to California in 2007, at the tail of English rock and guitar bands period. Especially those you have chosen to document in this issue of Vogue Italia? HS: Just like many people, I have severe chronic tinnitus. You own it, it’s your trademark, and there is besides a record for it. BoF brings you the exclusive English translation of a rare sit down with one of the most secretive designers in fashion. HS: The style, the personal style in this case, is a discipline made of renunciations. HS: There are always a lot of concerts everywhere here in Los Angeles, downtown, on the east side, or Hollywood. I want the integrity of this route. It also means starting a new chapter. Milano n. 00834980153 società con socio unico, I bracciali Rose des vents di Christian Dior - Esclusiva Vogue.it, Beauty Tutorial: How to do cat-eye makeup like Jasmine Sanders, a.k.a. Slimane: En exclusivité, le vainqueur de l’édition 2016 de The Voice a accepté de nous accorder une interview.Le chanteur nous dévoile ses aspirations pour le futur et ce que l’émission lui a apporté. This recurrent millennial term, used like a business school lesson, described with statistics and numbers, is boring. LF: The black colour that every major couturier or artistic director expresses his difference through, has become almost standardised. But it had to be done. What’s important is always now. Je travaille énormément pour donner le meilleur de moi aux personnes qui me soutiennent. How Hedi Slimane Presaged Fashion's Instagram Obsession. Most of the musicians in this essay were photographed at home or in their sound studio or music venues, and are wearing their own stage clothes. Here, in an email exchange with Vogue Italia editor-at-large Luke Leitch, Slimane sketches the context for his work. Social media is a fantastic revolution and will always be a bit like the Wild West. How does the scene compare to the other cities whose scenes you have documented? Can I start with this: you once said that when you were growing up in Paris, you imagined that you might become a reporter. Finally, a style is always linked to a time, a period, it resonates with it. Everything there remains unspoilt. Some of the bands and people you are especially passionate about? I don’t see life the same way anymore. No social media at the time, it was private, and had the authentic feel and dusty glamour of old Hollywood. All fundamentals must be carefully considered without losing sight of the long term goal. Yann Pessino is like a poet, a genuine and charming musician that embodies a certain idea of the current surf culture in southern California. I always looked at my own youth with a distance. HS: Hold on. I managed to get up again and handle this pain every day. Californians have a very different notion of memory. No matter the time in history, they are this pure energy, the exaltation of every moment and the emotion of the skin, living their lives at full speed. Consistency, rigour, accuracy — this is what is meaningful to me. Dior Homme shows from 2005 were exclusively filled with this magnificent legion of UK bands, and the fashion I was designing was somehow dedicated to them, a stage wardrobe. I was not really part of the action, and watched all my friends around me through a lens, the observation of the fields of possible, emerging talents, and restless behaviors. With Phoebe Philo Leaving Céline, What's Next? I found my style more than 20 years ago, unless it's the other way around. The goal is not to go the opposite way of their work either. It was a spiral, a daily suffering. It will perpetuate at Celine. I have girls and boys that come every day to try out and become our new models: they are our accomplices. J’aimerais d’ailleurs présenter le premier extrait de ce deuxième album lors de la finale de The voice cette année. Most of the time, the characters I depict are unaware of this whimsical quality, the spirit of freedom, they just live their lives with a reckless insouciance. How Digital Beauty Brands Are Making Wholesale Work, Independent Women Brought Hope to Fashion’s Virtual Spring, Gucci’s Appeal Holds Up in Pandemic as Kering Beats Estimates, UK Shopper Numbers Fall Again as Covid-19 Restrictions Tighten. Tell us about your relationship with black. Beaucoup ont apprécié ton duo avec Léa Castel, envisages-tu d’autres duos ou collaborations pour le futur ? Youth is gracefulness, freedom of speech and recklessness. For this essay I believed Ed Ruscha and John Baldessari could define historically the contour of the generation I was depicting. I am delighted to come back to a French house, the tradition, the. I come from a family of tailors from Pescaro, in the Abruzzo region of Italy. It’s team work: that of the studio, the ateliers and the models. Each has his way to tell about his time. It is a way for the former student of hypokhâgne (a two-year programme after secondary school graduation specialising in literature and humanities), who dreamt of being a journalist, to “document” the era, as he says, with skin-deep images and silhouettes. You don't shake things up by avoiding making waves. HS: The Saint Laurent project was somehow experimental, a French couture studio based for the first time in California. It's about putting the church back at the centre of the village. Twenty years ago, I put the shoulders back to where they should be and then redefined the waist line. Hedi Slimane: I am delighted to come back to a French house, the tradition, the métiers, the ateliers. I still live in Los Angeles, but it is different. A generation was about to come out (Girls, No Age, the Growlers, Ty Segal, Fidlar, Mystic Braves, Allalahs, Froth, the Garden etc), from all places of southern and northern California, distilling distorted psychedelic riffs, and a new surf sound. Vogue Italia is delighted to welcome Hedi Slimane to its pages. We were at Jumbos, a poll dancing bar I love in Los Angeles. adsJSCode("bannerInRead", [565,333], "", ""); I always thought this was clearly what I would do: document the world around me, be an archivist of my time, live in the moment. I think of the seaside towns of the Golden State, the beaches of Orange County, San Clemente, San Onofre, San Diego and further north, Santa Cruz. I have this tradition in me. Your photographs show a rawness and almost anarchic punk attitude particular to the LA scene that goes right back to Tony Alva in the 70’s and 80’s. The selfie-craze is an anthropological topic in and of itself. We have to be as enthusiastic about it as we were in the early days. Barack Obama’s presidential victory played an important role, it meant something promising. We are committed to preservation, and most of them are committed to evolution and projection. To document it, you need to become part of it, and it can only happen over a very long period of time. LL: Where is the best place in LA to seek out progressive music? Casting is the key to everything. © 2020 The Business of Fashion. It's been taken over and the authenticity is slowly getting lost because the megalopolis appeals to the world and the youth. Slimane : J’essaie effectivement de [il accentue ce point] faire attention à ça et je suis bien entouré par ma famille et mes amis… Du coup je pense avoir gardé la tête sur les épaules ! LF: Cities have always been important to you — Berlin (Dior Homme), London (for its punk rock scene), Los Angeles for Saint Laurent and “California Song,” the exhibition that took place at the Moca in 2011. LF: You have been living in the United States for 10 years now. The city had a strong influence on my early years at Dior, where I tried to introduce in Paris a certain vibration or energy of Berlin in the early days of the new millennium. En tout cas nous, nous te souhaitons que du positif et remercions du temps que tu as pu nous consacrer. Androgyny was already part of my photographs in the late 80s, as I was already street casting art students (model Jerome Le Chevalier, one of the first “waif boys” I found in a bus probably in ‘88) or musicians. This is a good start. One day I could wake up and feel I need to start a different chapter, however this has been a lasting creative cycle, over few decades, so many souvenirs, encounters and projects I am deeply attached to. Francesca Ferrante, ©Edizioni Condé Nast s.p.a. - P.zza Castello 27 - 20121 Milano cap.soc. Historically, as soon as you alter the silhouette, people react to that. As a child, I would rather have been playing in the park than at the Marché Saint-Pierre. LF: Has the fact that the house of Celine was located in a 17th-century Parisian hôtel particulier been crucial? Slimane : Oui j’aimerais, petit à petit, pouvoir réaliser mes propres clips, et pourquoi pas produire un jour de nouveaux artistes. En dehors du chant et de la musique, est-ce que tu as d’autres grandes passions dans ta vie ? From 2002, I spent most of my time in London, surrounded by a group of English musicians that were playing all around the east side of town. Le Figaro: You are returning to fashion after a two-year absence. A designer is someone who expresses himself authentically through what he feels. LF: Like her, you suffer from a particular illness. His surprise appointment at the helm of the house, which was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana, propelled the French designer into the spotlight again. I was nonetheless convinced of the growing influence California would have in popular culture, music, and art, and for obvious reasons even more so with the rise of social medias. La rencontre avec Léa a été une superbe rencontre et j’espère qu’il y en aura bien d’autres à venir… Sinon, j’aimerais beaucoup travailler avec Sting ou Youssou N’Dour ! Our vision is naturally distinct. Les deux grandes amies des Marseillais ne sont désormais plus aussi proches. Now it’s a completely different story – French and American houses are regular visitors to show events at the city and the aesthetic of LA’s style vernacular (in a great part thanks to you) has become globally recognizable and aspired to. I also think that I have explored the city from top to bottom. Former Reformation CEO Deemed Not 'Racist’ as Workplace Reckoning Continues, What a ‘K-Shaped Recovery’ Means for Luxury Fashion. By photographing every moment of my life. Slimane : C’est vrai j’étais très occupé… Mais c’est aussi un choix : je crois sincèrement que je me raconte assez dans mes chansons. I grew up between the smoke of Le Palace and the white tiles of Les Bains-Douches. Luke Leitch, Vogue Italia, August 2017, n.804, pag.32 HS: Black is sharp and straightforward. I presume I see it as a sacred and scintillating ritual they all perform every second of their lives. Le chanteur nous dévoile ses aspirations pour le futur et ce que l’émission lui a apporté. I also realised what was the most precious thing to me, what gave meaning to my life. LF: What about Lady Gaga, who has 29.5 million followers on Instagram and sparked excitement all over the internet with your first Celine bag? It happened over a year ago now, when I started hearing obsessive and persisting noises one morning. HS: There is not such a thing. It was not the right moment to photograph her, she felt she needed first to define her music, and we reconnected recently at one of her early concerts with her exciting band Starcrawler. Those things always end up getting sorted out, one way or another. PARIS, France —Hedi Slimane has given precious few interviews during his 20-year career in fashion. LL: I’ve been listening to Curtis Harding’s album after seeing him in your portfolio – he’s fantastic! HS: I never published this portrait of Iggy shot in Los Angeles in 2015. The current essay for Italian Vogue is somehow an evolution of this generation, ten years after. Everything was done very organically. I was not really into anyone that did not have their own sense of style and strong artistic personality. Surtout : ne pas mentir, le public voit tout ! I have absolutely no interest. Naturally it started in the 60s and 70s, and this is a ritual transmission, generations after generations. The grandes maisons are alive. In the end, it all became a signature and archetypal of my style over a repetitive and serial approach in all my work. The elegant order of the bare stone buildings and the square courtyard are consistent with the project. The young skater opening this portfolio is significant of my style. Designers are nothing without their models. [Rires], Pour suivre Slimane c’est par ici que ça se passe : You need to experiment different crowds and areas of town, just like you would do in London or Berlin, with a juxtaposition of alternative scenes. Ahead of his Celine debut, Hedi Slimane talks to Laurence Benaïm for Le Figaro. c.f e p.iva reg.imprese trib. I was 6 years old, and the only thing I knew besides Grimm Brothers fairy tales, was David Bowie’s Aladdin Sane period, Angie from the Stones, and Elvis in his gold suit singing Suspicious Minds. Will the world eventually get tired of this emulation of reality, of the algorithm to get to the top, of this search for cyber-fame, where quantity is what impresses the crowds? There have been collections dedicated to black at Saint Laurent, particularly in 1999 when I launched the laser cut leather and later at Dior Homme with the Berlin collections. On a different hand, two years earlier, at 11, I started to take photographs, black and white photographs, and to print all of my own pictures. Selling Fashion on Instagram: Expectation vs. I was escaping Paris, in February and July to start designing all my collections, and did this for all the Dior Homme collections, until 2007, permanently moving to California. LL: You imported a lot of the authenticity you document in LA into your re-envisioning of Saint Laurent. This became clearer later, after 2008. Will the popularity contest smooth out the differences. The youth before was no less interesting and engaged than this one, and the youth after will be just as important. Finally, the fashion industry followed 3 years after, showing up for advertising campaigns, and fashion shows, any possible occasion to vaguely associate themselves with LA or California. All of this was anticipated. HS: It happens in a natural manner. His first Celine collection, which will be shown in Paris on September 28, is one of the most anticipated of the Spring/Summer 2019 season, as it marks the designer's return to fashion two years after leaving. There’s no constraint, no model that is linked to a very important legacy. LL: Whether in Paris, London, Berlin or now LA you become profoundly embedded in your places of work. LL: You moved to LA in 2007. Slimane : Il faut rester soi-même et cultiver sa différence. Growing up, I had a fascination for History and Political Sciences. With the exception of the Oscars, that city was barely on the radar of the fashion industry back then. I worked a lot on the effects of black, especially on coated effects, satin-finished effects, shiny, coppery effects, as opposed to a matte-finish. Slimane : [Rires] Non, je travaille actuellement sur mon deuxième album. The idea is not to derogate from my style, from what made me. There is still something about California that makes sense for me, that simply feels right. I would start all my Dior collections there, in my hotel room. This is her life and passion.
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